I was pregnant just over a year ago when we were deciding where to go on holiday and whilst I was still very comfortable cycling at the time, I didn’t fancy planning one of our more gruelling itineraries in case I found that I wasn’t physically up to it or at the very least would be snoring into my dinner by 5pm every night.
So it seemed like the perfect time to finally visit Venice, land of 121 islands and over 400 little bridges with lots of steps that make it a most impractical location for bicycles and baby buggies alike. In fact, cycling is not permitted in the main part of Venice, although you will see the occasional cycle tourist parked up in one of the many picturesque squares, staring at a map and scratching their head as they ponder how to navigate through all those winding narrow streets without taking a turn that will deposit them directly into a canal.
Bicycle sculpture at the Palazzo Cavalli-Franchetti, Venice
Cycling is permitted, however, on some of the outlying islands in the Venetian lagoon, the most accessible and well known of which is Lido, a slender seven mile long sandbar less than a mile from the main islands of central Venice. Prior to the 1850s very little happened here, although Lord Byron and his pal Shelley used to ride horses among its dunes apparently. Byron once swam all the way from Lido to Venice and up the Grand Canal (where he regularly used to swim up to ladies’ houses and peer in through the windows, the old goat). Then Europe’s first beach resort was established here, becoming such a hit that we still use the word lido today to refer to outdoor swimming pools. It really hit its stride by the turn of the 20th century, as evidenced by the string of art deco hotels strewn along the eastern beach front.
It’s heyday is behind it, but Lido remains the place where Venetians go to escape the heat and bustle of Venice in the summer and get some beach time. Its flat roads and laid-back vibe also make it a great place for a bike ride if you need a break from all those galleries and gondolas yourself.
Getting there and getting started
Venice is well serviced by a network of vaporetto (water bus) routes, at least half a dozen of which head out to Lido from the Grand Canal and other central locations. A single journey is expensive (EUR 7 at the time of my visit, but then this is the city that charges a leg-crossing EUR 1.50 to use a public toilet). You can buy tickets valid for 24, 48, 72 hours or a week that are better value if you are staying in Venice for a while.
The vaporetto deposits you at the north end of Lido on the western side of the island, from where there are great views back across the lagoon to Venice, which the following photo doesn’t do justice.
It’s there if you look hard enough!
From here it’s a short walk to Granviale Santa Maria Elisabetta, a busy shopping street that cuts straight across the island to the beaches on the eastern (sea)side. There’s a decent supermarket to pick up supplies for a picnic, some restaurants, the obligatory purveyors of plastic seaside tat and, crucially, a number of bicycle hire companies.
We used Lido On Bike, who are located on the left hand side of the Granviale just minutes from the vaporetto stop. They have bikes for all ages and sizes, including child seats, tandems and even a rickshaw.
Cycling for all family sizes catered for!
Unusually for Venice, bike hire here is a bargain – we paid just EUR 16 euro for four hours of cycling. You don’t have to decide in advance how long you want to hire the bikes for either, you pay when you get back.
Things to do and see
There are a few sites of interest on Lido, including a fourteenth century Jewish cemetery and the church of San Nicolo at the northern end of the island, but considering how much sight-seeing there is to be done back in Venice there’s enough pleasure to be had here from simply cycling about. Unlike the mainland cars are allowed on Lido, but the drivers are considerate around cyclists, surrendering to the island’s relaxed mood.
Head south along Lungomare Guglielmo Marconi on the sea side of the island past a stretch of hotels, each with its own stretch of beach that you are welcome to use – for a fee. You’ll pass the Palazzo del Cinema, one of the venues for the Venice film festival which contributed to a buzzing atmosphere when we were visiting in September.
Swing back in land and continue south along Via Sandro Gallo, the main artery running the length of the island. The riding is low key and peaceful, passing through leafy residential areas and the village of Malamocco.
Leafy back streets
The road takes you back over to the lagoon side for more easy cycling along a quiet coastal road to the village of Alberoni at the southern tip of the island. If you don’t fancy splashing out to swim at one of the hotel’s beaches then head here for one of Lido’s two public beaches (the other is at the north end and is much busier). It’s not the most glamorous of beaches but it’s spacious and the water is clean. On our Sunday afternoon visit, the endless line of beach huts were busy with noisy extended families enjoying lunch together.
The south public beach
Keen to keep going?
A 15 minute hop by car ferry from Alberoni will take you to the neighbouring island of Pellestrina, another long, thin island to the south of Lido peppered with sleepy fishing villages (vaporetto tickets are accepted on the ferry). Press on further still to the island of Chioggia.
Coastal cycling near Alberoni
It may not be the most challenging or memorable cycling you’ll ever do, but it’s a lovely way to spend an quiet afternoon in this most busy of tourist hotspots.
Bex on Wheels 